Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2017
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Category | Red Wine |
Varietal | |
Brand | Domaine Jacques Frederic Mugnier |
Origin | France, Burgundy, Chambolle-Musigny |
Other vintages
Bonnes-Mares is a grand cru vineyard in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits region. It mostly lies within Chambolle-Musigny, with a small 1.5 hectare (3.7ac) plot in neighboring Morey-Saint-Denis. Bonnes-Mares is planted entirely to Pinot Noir, making wines that are heavier and more robust than those from (Le) Musigny, and are capable of being aged for many years.
Bonnes-Mares is one of the more fragmented grand cru vineyards in Burgundy, with approximately 19 growers producing this appellation. A look at the Chambolle-Musigny plan cadastral (a parish survey plan, with every plot annotated with the names of its owners) shows the meticulous definition involved. Napoleonic inheritance laws dictate that land must be divided equally between all members of a subsequent generation, so the number of plots will only increase in the future unless an organizational change is made.
There are several proposed etymologies for the Bonnes-Mares name. The most widely believed is that it is a reference to the Cistercian Bonnes Meres ("good mothers") of the nearby Notre Dame de Tart Abbey. This was the first Cistercian monastery for women, established in 1125, and gives its name to Bonnes-Mares' northern grand cru neighbor, Clos de Tart.
Producer tasting notes: "The Bonnes Mares appellation sits astride the village communes of Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis, it therefore presents characteristics intermediate to both appellations. The influence of the Morey terroir gives frankness, firmness and the more earthy character. Then there is the aromatic spectrum of red fruit berries which dominates in Chambolle, blended with more mineral nuances and sometimes hints of forest floor undergrowth."
Wine Advocate
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The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries and plums mingled with notions of peonies, grilled squab, spices and musk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with good concentration and ripe acids, framed by an ample endowment of fine, powdery tannin that renders this more structured than the corresponding Amoureuses but not in any sense more austere. While this is quite charming and expressive for young Bonnes Mares, at least a decade's patience will be warranted.
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