Vietti Barolo Monvigliero 2019

The 2019 Barolo Monvigliero is stunning. What a wine. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2019 is a gorgeous, spherical Barolo that dazzles right out of the gate. Aromatically broad and expansive, the 2019 fleshes out beautifully in the glass. Bright red-toned fruit, orange zest, mint, spice and bright saline notes saturate the palate on the back end. The 2019 is a total stunner, even in this stage of youthful austerity. It comes across as a bit rustic compared to the 2018, but the final verdict on that won't be evident for at least a number of years. This is the first vintage that includes a second parcel in Monvigliero. In the cellar, one lot saw submerged cap maceration, the other did not.

This is the wine Luca Currado and Elena Penna are most excited to present. And because this charming couple would leave the helm of the winery shortly after my visit with them, I like to consider the 2019 Barolo Monvigliero a symbolic send-off. Making Nebbiolo from Monvigliero is often a question of technique more than anything else, they tell me, and the learning curve is arduous. This wine sees 60% whole cluster fermentation in a single vat. Having some destemmed grapes makes fermentation easier to control. Family friend Fabio Alessandria of Comm. G.B. Burlotto offered tips on how to avoid volatile acidity or other problems with long maceration times. In fact, Vietti was able to acquire directly from Fabio Alessandria their 8,000-square-meter parcel in Monvigliero located at 300 meters in elevation on a high plain. "He passed the ball to us," says Luca Currado.

There is a light rustic tone in this elegant, medium-framed wine from the north in Verduno. Notes of fresh leather, pomegranate, and sweet herbs are followed by a medium-bodied wine with fine and approachable tannins. It is an elegant, more gentle expression but offers a lot of pleasure. Drink 2023-2040.