Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne Romanée Aux Malconsorts 2020
- v97
- bh96
- wa93-95
Category | Red Wine |
Varietal | |
Brand | Domaine Sylvain Cathiard |
Origin | France, Burgundy, Vosne-Romanée |
Other vintages
This tiny domaine was established by Sylvain Cathiard’s grandfather (who worked for Domaine de la Romanee Conti and later for Domaine Lamarche) in the 1930's and was then further developed and maintained by Sylvain’s father Andre from 1969 until 1985, when Sylvain himself became involved. The following year, Sylvain set up his own with parcels of vines rented from his father and other vignerons, before taking on his father’s original vineyards. In 2006, he was joined by his son, Sebastian, and they have formed the estate of Sylvain Cathiard et Fils and since 2011 Sebastien has been running the domaine with Sylvain retiring.
Based in Vosne, his 5 hectares span Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-St-Georges and Chambolle-Musigny, with a very small parcel in Romanée-St-Vivant located directly below Romanee Conti where they are officially the smallest land-owner of this magnificent Grand cru. All vineyard work is carried out with meticulous attention to detail by Sebastien and his wife and a small dedicated team. All vineyard work is done on organic principles although Sebastien has not sought certification.
For winemaking Sebastien has a definite hands-off approach, preferring to do nothing rather than interfere with the natural development of the wines. He de-stems entirely, cold settles the juice for about 10 days and ferments the wines for between 22 and 30 days on skins. The new wines are matured for 18 months in oak of which about 90% is from tonellerie Remond and 10% from Francois Freres as follows: Village wines, roughly 1/3rd new oak and 2/3rds of 1 year old; 1er Crus, roughly 50% new oak and 50% 1 year old; Grand Cru, two new barrels and one one year old barrel. Since 2000 none of the wines are fined or filtered.
Sebastien Cathiard's wines are incredibly harmonious, softly textured and very fine. Since taking over in 2011 Sebastien has been listening carefully to those few who get the privilege to taste with him and he has gradually reduced the percentage of new oak used for aging. In a good vintage there are around 50 barrels produced in total across all appellations. His Vosne-Romanées in particular are now regarded among the best of the village. All wines offered are from fully mature vineyards that have yielded fruit with wonderful natural intensity and balance. These wines represent artisan wine-making at its very best. Quantities are extremely limited and are offered first to previous faithful buyers in fine wine shops and top restaurants.
Vinous
- v97
The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a very intense and opulent bouquet that is currently less expressive than the Les Suchots, but I find more breeding and delineation here, more terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, wonderful structure, certainly the spiciest as if there is some whole bunch in here (there is none). 95-97
Burghound
- bh96
A markedly more restrained nose only reluctantly displays its array of much more floral scented red currant, cherry and anise whiffs. Somewhat surprisingly, the larger-scaled flavors are not quite as dense but even so they are more powerful, muscular and minerality while the overtly firm supporting structure really becomes apparent on the dusty, youthfully austere and explosively long finish. As is usually the case at this stage, the Cathiard Malconsorts is largely a block of potential so plenty of patience will be required but it should ultimately be brilliant. 94-96
Wine Advocate
- wa93-95
Offering up a youthfully primary bouquet of cherries, wild berries, plums, sweet soil tones and spices, the 2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts is full-bodied, rich and muscular, with an ample, multidimensional mid-palate framed by fine but firm tannins. As ever, it's one of the least-evolved wines in the cellar.
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