Christian Moreau Chablis Les Clos 2020

The 2020 Chablis Les Close Grand Cru has a tightly-wound bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass, eventually revealing wet pavement, fern, flint and light citrus scents. The palate is taut, fresh and well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity; the 2020 gains weight towards the finish with a long, lightly spiced aftertaste that urges you back for another sip. Great potential.

Slightly more apparent wood (though still nicely subtle) is present on the overtly floral-suffused nose where notes of lemongrass, mineral reduction and iodine add breadth. There is impressive volume to the powerful and delineated yet reasonably refined larger-scaled flavors that where the texture is akin to sucking on tiny rocks. The balanced bone-dry finish is refreshingly crisp in no small part thanks to the citrus-tinged acidity. 92-94

A rich, almost opulent style, this white delivers melon, apple, lemon cake and lanolin aromas and flavors backed by a lively structure. Ends with lingering notes of seashore and stone, along with a tactile sensation. Best from 2024 through 2033. 1,700 cases made, 400 cases imported.