W&J Graham's Vintage Port 1994

A big, tough, young vintage Port that's closed and difficult to taste. Emits lovely aromas of chocolate, berry and plum, and is full-bodied with lots of sweet, fruit flavors and masses of velvety tannins. Long, sweet finish. Best after 2010. 11,000 cases made. Apr 30, 1997

The 1994 Vintage Port is going to be re-released. It has about 100 grams per liter of residual sugar. With a big eucalyptus note up front, this is elegant in the mid-palate with controlled tannins. Sweet and easy in some ways, this is readily approachable now, perhaps not at peak, but more expressive than the relatively brooding Dow's, also reviewed. The hint of caramel and raisins mixed with sugar makes this irresistible. It is sexy and intriguing.

The 1994 Graham's Vintage Port, which incidentally carries quite noticeable sediment, as there is no fining or filtration, is beginning to show a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is very harmonious and welcoming, featuring aromas of mulberry, roasted chestnut, pressed rose petals, autumn leaves and a hint of liquorice. The nose is not powerful; rather, it displays a brooding intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin and lightly spiced with clove, pain d'épices and again, a scintilla of liquorice. Though it obviously has another 20 or 30 years in the tank, this mellow Graham's is drinking beautifully now. Tasted at the Symington Tawny Port tasting at the Tower of London. Neal Martin