Château Calon Ségur Saint Estèphe 2009

Delivers gorgeous aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice, with hints of tobacco and spice. Full-bodied, offering a lovely texture and refinement. Very long and beautiful, with tangy acidity and lively fruit. A rich, yet very balanced, Calon. This is almost all Cabernet Sauvignon instead of the normal blend with 40 percent Merlot. The château is now using 100 percent new wood. Like the changes.

Tasted from an ex-château bottle at BI Wine & Spirits Calon-Segur dinner in London, the 2009 Calon Segur is cut from such a different cloth to the 2008, you might presume they are totally different châteaux! What they share in common is that they are both long-term propositions. This is an atypical 2009 in the sense that it remains one of the few that require patience. Sure, it has an opulent and intense bouquet with plenty more glycerine and warmth than the 2008, maintaining fine delineation, but you know there is more to come. The palate is full-bodied, powerful and almost viscous on the entry, bold but structured, especially towards the substantial finish that clams up tightly after 20-30 minutes. Punishment for jumping the gun? Hey, it's up to you, but there are many other Left Bank 2009s that you could enjoy within ten years of age before considering this excellent Saint Estèphe. Tasted March 2015.