Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs 2020
- v97
- bh97
- d96
- wa95
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Category | Red Wine |
Varietal | |
Brand | Marquis d'Angerville |
Origin | France, Burgundy, Volnay |
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville is one of Burgundy's most sought after estates, and perfectly exemplifies the identity of Volnay. D'Angerville's list of holdings touches all of the village’s great terroirs, including one of the most picturesque vineyards in Volnay, the monopole of the estate, Clos des Ducs. The domaine started bottling its own production in the 1920s after the current Marquis’ grandfather, Sem d’Angerville, challenged the blending methods of the negociants’ and then began bottling his own wines instead of selling them his grapes. D'Angerville was one of the first Burgundy domains to do this, making history and encouraging the future of the region at the same time. Today the estate is led by Guillaume d’Angerville, farmed immaculately, and is producing some of the best wines in the entire Cote d’Or.
An official act from the beginning of the 16th century already listed this plot, consisting of 52 'works', in the Domaine des Ducs de Bourgogne. The 'work', the ancient unit of surface area in Burgundy, represented the surface that a winegrower could take care of alone in one day. There are about 24 'works' in one hectare. Today the same plot covers an area of 2.15 hectares, identical to the 52 'works' measured in the 16th century. The soil is strongly calcareous, stony, poor, quite deep and clayey (white marl). The perfect south-east exposure guarantees ideal sunshine. The very steep slope of the vineyard allows a very good drainage.
This is the greatest, most collectible wine of the Domaine. This wine, firm and elegant at the same time, plays in a league of its own. Its structure is complex and harmonious. Its aromas, very ample, give it an exceptional volume and a rare distinction. A wine for the cellar, it evolves slowly in bottle to reach a great fullness starting from 10 years from the vintage. Great vintages often require more time, and this wine, in the best vintages, can last for 25-30 years.
Vinous
- v97
The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this Clos des Ducs unfurls in the glass with a lilting, very pure and almost balletic finish. Quite saline on the aftertaste such that it urges you back for another sip. Sophisticated (as usual) yet delicious. 95-97
Burghound
- bh97
An exuberantly floral nose combines notes of rose petal, violet, lavender, earth, clove and black cherry liqueur. The almost painfully intense, sappy and muscular big-bodied mouth coating flavors brim with minerality on the explosively long and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. Even so, the supporting tannins are prominent and leave no doubt that this is going to mature gracefully if slowly. This stunningly good Clos des Ducs is a clear candidate for the best Côte de Beaune red in the 2020 vintage. *Burghound Don't Miss Outstanding!* 94-97
Decanter
- d96
This iconic wine from the d’Angerville estate is a 2.15-hectare monopole that begins on the north side of the village and climbs up the white marl soils of the slope here, producing wines with a bright red berry fruit with notes of licorice, ginger, and violets. The wine is not as full-bodied as those south of the village, but with a lovely, silky character. D’Angerville explains that the aromas are 'almost peppery' and that recent vintages have delivered perfect conditions for Volnay. Drinking Window 2025 - 2060.
Wine Advocate
- wa95
Readers will have a fun time debating the relative merits of d'Angerville's 2018, 2019 and 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs in 20 years' time, as for now it is a very close-run thing. The 2020 is certainly superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, plums and berries mingled with spices, orange zest, peony and discreet hints of oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless palate that's bright, elegant and rich but refined. Of the trio, it's probably the 2020 that carries the sunshine and warmth of the vintage the most lightly, even though the year was, on paper, the most extreme.
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